AKA: KEEPING IT OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP FOR PROBLEMATIC FAILURES SEEN SINCE 2017.

 

This model has been plagued its entire lifetime because of design and manufacturing problems!. The newest V-TWIN MIL-ET Engine has a less than stellar reputation among the industry. Predominately because of inherent problems since release in 2017 and found on all Platforms today. There has been NO palpable advances whatsoever.

 

Choose any Forum and just read the reoccurring problems owners experience. It’s enough to shed a tear if you own one of these. Story and story about failures leaving riders without a Motorcycle sometimes for months, out of town, following Stage Kit installations, and it just goes on. Countless statements of failure and being without a motorcycle sometimes for months without exaggeration.

 

My professional opinions can be found on several published Motorcycle Trade Articles concerning the problems as well as solutions to make it as good as its predecessor the Twin-Cam by Harley-Davidson. I have an included article this November in a Trade Magazine discussing these topics. Myself, with three relatives in the industry, and several manufacturers working side by side have collectively solved the problematic issues plaguing the MIL-ET .It took time, money, research and development, but in the end, the industry did it!

 

It doesn’t matter if you have a 2017 or 2020, a Touring or Softail, the only differentiating factor is the revision of the Oil Pump, Cam-Plate, and a Fuel Tune that meets the EPA Clean Air Act (CAA) . Everything else is the same. Be it a 107,114, or 131 – The core of its operation is the same. And, this is where the problems began.

 

It is not really the fault of Harley-Davison, perse’. Following a law suit accusing Harley-Davidson of Manufacturing and Tuning Motorcycles outside the approved parameters of the CAA cost Harley-Davidson $43M (later reduced to $12M). As part of the settlement, Harley-Davidson was required to introduce an Engine which had to meet or exceed the CAA for all 2017 and later model years (MY). They [Harley-Davidson] had no real choice but to introduce it in 2017.

 

 This was the beginning of the problem. They [HD] had a new engine in design as you will find H-D introduces a newer engine about every decade. In this case, it was scheduled for the 2020 MY. They were forced to bring it to market by 2017 and forgo testing and corrective measures and evaluations. Or, just not manufacture motorcycles. This is why we’re at, we’re we are at.

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Some of the problems that plagues it, even as of today are sub-standard-design which proves it susceptible to failure. The foremost problems include catastrophic failures requiring replacement Engines. Problems like severe “Sumping”, inadequate, Oil Scavenging and oil distribution. Remember, this is still an oil cooled engine, in fact, it cools with more oil than the Twin- Cam. Nonetheless, even the “Water-Head” cooled Engines have their own problems such as the Water Pump failures in just a few miles or at least once or twice annually. Water Pumps have become they’re own separate issues.

 

To date, there have been four model up-dates in the Oil Pump, one in the Cam Plate, two in the Water-Pump, a Vent System from carry-over from the Transmission to the Primary and a plethora of others.

 

There are oil shavings found throughout the Crankcase and Oiling Passageways. Some believe it to be a Manufacturing flaw and others a design flaw. Either way, they exist. These often are large enough to block passageways ruining the engine.

 

Fortunately, most of these problems present in the first two-years of your Warranty. And, an Extended Service Plan (ESP) helps ensure it will be repaired. But, those repairs won’t make it better than it was. It just fixes what was broken. The chance of it happening again are about the same. After warranties expire, you will be left footing the bill.

 

The problem is THE SAME PARTS THAT FAILED WILL BE USED TO REPAIR IT. And, they’ll only repair the part that fails. Example:  If a Valve Spring on the Head fails, one would think they would replace all four with the up-dated spring nope. Doesn’t work that way under a Warranty Claim. Some Dealerships [to their credit] will ‘fight” to have the additional parts replaced but in the majority of cases, they’re denied. As a fact, for most riders, failures will occur, it’s just a matter of time and mileage. For the most part, not the exception, the MIL-ET spends a lot of time in the Dealerships Service Bay.

 

One of the MAJOR problems that cannot be overlooked is the tuning requirements set forth by the CAA for Exhaust Emissions. Manufacturers are required under penalty of law to use only approved tunes for your Motorcycle. It cannot be tuned to provide longevity or any real seat-of-the- pants improvements. Because, “manufacturers are prohibited from tuning vehicles outside their Federal Statute”. As such, Harley-Davidson is a Manufacturer.

 

“But I have a Screamin’ Eagle Street Tuner! Doesn’t matter?”. No not at all.

 

The upper and lower limits remain the same. It’s a sales incentive for the Salesperson and profit for the Service Group – Period. If the Technician Tuning places a value he or she thinks it needs but doesn’t meet the CAA the Cell is highlighted RED and the data change reverted back to the closest approve CAA Standard Value.

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You on the other hand, the “Private Citizen Consumer”, can do pretty much whatever you want so long as it meets the legalities of the Federal Transportation Motor Vehicle Standard. You, are an individual citizen and cannot be held to the CAA once you have taken delivery of the Motorcycle. Add a Tuner, have it Tuned by an Aftermarket Shop, add your own 3rd party Tuner, or whatever you want. But, be aware, if you live in California, the State Law holds the resident to the same CAA standards under California State Law. In California you can’t change anything that does not meet the CAA.

 

Another issue you may encounter is if you live in a Metropolitan Area that requires Motorcycles to be tested at Vehicle Inspection Stations every so often because of unhealthy air quality in that city. You can still do what you wish but, may have to present a receipt for parts or labor stating the problem exists and could not be corrected, and/or pay a nominal fee of something like $50 every so often.. but this varies from State to State.

 

You can, do what I refer to as “Dealer-Proofing” your MIL-ET to practically guarantee it will never have a Dealership engine repair ticket written for the failures that occur today!

 

What is “DEALER-PROOFING”? Replacing those parts that are known failure links, Tuning, and bringing your Engine to the best possible performance and longevity without hurting it one iota of a bit! In fact, it will run better, cooler, faster, louder, and increase the Engine life two-fold.

 

NOW, LET’S DISCUSS THE ITEMS THAT ARE DEFECTIVE IN OUR OPINION.

 

THE OIL PUMP – There have been four revisions (actually three) to the design and abilities of the unit. The pump does NOT scavenge oil from the crankcase effectively. Sumping is the leading cause of lower end failures of the lower ends of the MIL-ET.

 

THE CAM PLATE – In 2007 H-D removed the Manganese Bushing from the outboard side of the Cam-Plate. Hence, the Cam End “floats in an Oil Bath” that separates it physically from the Cam- Plate. That is not a bad idea, if oil pressure is adequate and the Engine is always running. The later T- C Engines suffer a similar shortcoming, especially when upgraded. Oil passages and relief spring are not designed to make the Cam/Oil Pump/Cam-Plate work fluidly together. Further, the wear quickly and leak oil requiring adjustment. Since 2007 when the Manganese Brass bushing was removed, the Cam-Plate was a non- wearable engine part. In 2007 it became a “replaceable part due to wear”.

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The INNER CAM BEARINGS are just enough to get by. Another shortcoming is the depth at which they are driven home. Of all the Harley V-Twins this is perhaps the absolute worst fubar seen. Many owners report the complete failure of their engines due to inner cam bearing failures. Harley- Davidson increased the maximum wear limits on these Crankshafts from 0.002” to 0.005”. Many found with as much as 0.010”. At this point the Crankshaft is worthless and does nothing but destroy the entire engine. Replacing them properly requires some skill and understanding and in addition to the specialty tools, a Veneer Caliper and a very clear vision to ensure depth is not over achieved is of the absolute importance. Otherwise, disaster looms.

 

TAPPET CUFFS – the Cuffs are plastic. True, these do not “generally” enact contact. But, nonetheless, their job is to maintain the center of the Tappet to its confines and ensure the pushrod is centered in the Tappet and does not “turn” in its bore [many engines present with damaged Cams and Top-Ends because of Tappet rotation. Their primary job is  to control the Valvetrain and Oil delivery. We, in the industry have seen numerous occasions where the Tappet turns side-ways ruining the Cam and Top End. It’s a problem that is not acknowledged but happens very often. Several aftermarket shops post videos of their finding. You need no more than to do a search.

 

POLYMER INTAKE – The Intake is plastic. Heat cycles and especially heat in traffic have been known to melt and distort them causing intake leaks. What I find is if you never touch it, you don’t have a problem. Adding a Stage-I will lessen the seals every time.

 

           SERVICE BULLETIN: H-D advises all Riders to ensure the Engine Temperature Management System (ETMS) is turned ON to help alleviate the issue. In fact, they ensure its on at every visit to the Service Department as instructed by a Dealer Communications and Service bulletin.

 

AIR FUEL RATIO, VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY, AND SPARK TIMING.

 

These Engines run VERY Lean to meet the CAA. This means they generate an extreme amount of heat to burn-off the emissions such as NOx. In conjunction with the Catalytic Converter, you’re basically riding a Heat Kiln. Just about every engine failure presents with Glazing and distortion of the Cylinders.

 

 If you so much as change the value in one Cell of the Map, your Powertrain Warranty is VOID! Use a Tuner, same thing. It’s automatically identified by the Digital Technician and immediately “flags” the VIN as Void for Powertrain Warranty in the Cloud at Harley-Davidson. The Technician or Dealership has no say so. It’s all technology the the EPA imposed on H-D.

 

WE’VE DISCUSSED THE ENGINES SHORTCOMINGS, NOW, HOW TO CORRECT THEM.

 

             These are PROVEN to all but eliminate Engine Problems with the Mil-Et. It is said “Harley-Davidson Builds them,,, the aftermarket improves them”. Nothing is truer. The aftermarket was inundated by riders in the first few moths of horror stories and disappointment with the Mil-Et. And, they [aftermarket] went full steam to solve the problems. The process was both expensive and time consuming. About 2018 the aftermarket had the majority of answers and by mid-2019 had solved every issue pertaining to the Mil-Et.

 

• USE A BETTER OIL PUMP! Both Fueling and S&S have introduced Pumps that scavenge 53% more oil and provide 33% more oil flow to the engine. S&S also offer a pressure increase or decrease setting based on build incorporated into the Oil Pump.

 

• REPLACE THE CAM PLATE! Use a Cam-Plate that has been designed to accommodate the needed capacities and one that has a Manganese Brass Bushing (Fueling’s do not have these bushings. But are superior in every other way) in it to maintain both the lateral and horizontal position of the Cam and its loading. Get a Cam-Plate that has screens to block materials and magnets to collect material and keep it from entering the Cam-Plate and eventually the Oiling System.

 

• The TIMKEN BEARING Company has an inner bearing that has 30% more rollers which result in 30% more contact area on the Can End reducing play and ensuring smooth operation trouble- free operation.

 

• GET A CAM! No, not a radical cam. A “reasonable cam”. One for “Torque”. This helps improve improve the engines performance from a stop through much of its power making area. And will add longevity to the engine if tuned correctly. You won’t be disappointed.

 

• Another problem is the VALVE SPRINGS. The eight-valve design with a single cam is about as good as it can get. It allows for valve system management much better than the T-C or EVO. The issue is the Springs used are not adequate for the amount of work the engine is capable of. So, if you going to go with a high-power cam and not a torque cam, you’d better go with upgraded Valve Spring or Heads! Its unavoidable. Harley-Davidson made a couple revisions when their motors were upgraded to Stage III and IV where Springs would, for loss of a better word, explode their keepers and break the conical springs.

 

• CHANGE THAT INTAKE TO A 55 MM. The Screamin' Eagle Extreme-Flow 55 MM Intake Manifold flows more, is smoother, and is made of Aluminum and not plastic. It will last a lifetime, and then some. Its addition may not be seen but will be beneficial for longevity and performance.

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• Put a FREE-FLOWING HEAD PIPE on to minimize restriction and a HIGH-FLOW AIR FILTER SYSTEM – Engines are nothing more than Air Pumps. The more in, the more out, the more performance and cooling and the more Fuel you can use which equals performance by the seat of your pants.

 

• Replace those PLASTIC TAPPET CUFFS! Why risk it? $60 and it’s done while doing other up- grades. I have seen the bolts broken off and the Cuff destroyed. And, on one, the debris was picked up by the pump and became lodged in the Oil Cooler trashing the engine.

 

• ADD FUEL. Get out of the “Closed Loop” that prevents the Engine Management System (EMS) from doing anything more than meet emission standards!

 

• HAVE IT TUNED by someone other than Harley-Davidson? They CAN NOT tune it where it needs to be. Street Tuner or not. They CAN NOT get it where it needs to be! It’s the LAW. It’s not their fault. EPA imposes a $10k fine for EACH occurance.

 

The AFR, VE, AND SPARK TABLES need to be augmented with values that promote cooling and performance and not emissions and not all-out performance. Find a qualified and respected tuner who knows the difference. The only “closed loop” should be in the “cruising” area of the Map. 2,500 – 3,000 RPM at 20%-35% Throttle for maximum fuel efficiency; outside of there you are going up mountains, passing cars on the interstate or overtaking something, the open loop will handle all that.

 

• CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER EVERY 5,000 MILES ‼! I cannot stress this enough. It’s true for all air-cooled engines. But very critical for the MIL-ET ! Use a quality Oil and Filter. Not just any filter, one that limits 5-micron filtration and has a large number of pleated media. Stay away from by-pass filters such as K&N. When in bypass, all impurities and debris is allowed to pass through the filter into the Sump.

 

If you do these improvements your MIL-ET will avoid an early death and go on to live a good fulfilling life. It will perform like a well-designed technological advanced Engine of the 21st century, like it should.. You won’t be disappointed!

 

A word about stroking those engines from 107 to 114, or 131. Look at the Twin- Cam, in its original introduction, the 88 it was succeeded by the 96 and 103. Both of which worked well. The 103 was about as far as I would have taken it. The 110 came along and the industry opinion based on its performance and repair record was it was stroked too much and it suffered rather than gained. When you stroke an engine you’re essentially not changing the bottom end. You’re increasing the stroke thereby increasing the cubic inch area of the cylinder.

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The majority don’t even know what going from a 107 to a 131 even is. It’s just a bigger number so it must be good. If that is so true, why is it so easy to make a 95” outperform a 110” on the street and track without even working hard?

 

Doing this takes materials away from the Piston Skirts, Pistons, Cylinders, and Squish Area of the combustion chamber. Sure, it makes more Ponies. But, it does it with a lot less material on the internals. I’m not saying stroking the engine is bad.

 

“Horse Power Costs Money”. There is no way around that statement. “Bigger Cubes equal bigger Bills” and “There is no Replacement for Displacement”. These are all saying found in every industry from NASCAR to your Motorcycle.

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An example is the 131. Yes, it generates both horse Power and Torque. But you’ll need a Screamin’ Eagle or Grudge Box Transmission that costs about $3,500 - $5,000 in time to get that horsepower and torque to the rear wheel. Then, there comes a time when the Belt has to go for the Chain. And more and more if you want to gain from changing that 107 to a 131. In the end, those bigger numbers on the Air Filter Cover equal less life. In the end, these numbers are just that, numbers. For $5,000 you will barely notice a difference in either the motorcycle or the Dyno Graph! But, you will notice a difference in your Wallet!

 

Other issue with the HEADS on the Mil-Et: It’s no secret that the Towers that attach the Rocker Shafts to the Head develops “Stress-Cracks” and in some cases total failure costing in excess of $2k to replace and install. There are many theories why this occurs: too little Mass, Tap Holes not deep enough, too excessive Spring Pressure, etc.

 

Whatever the cause, the most promising fix is the “Stud” the Head with black-oxide, high- strength Studs installation. Which brings up the last know issue, the Valve Springs. Currently, Harley- Davidson is in its third revision of the Valve Springs. There are the most seen failures in the Heads. If it’s identified prior to catastrophic failure by noticing the “Tapping” in the Head most commonly identified as a Tappet issue. There is a Fix. Get rid of the Gen 1 and 2 Springs and up-grade to either the Gen 3 or aftermarket Springs.

All of these upgrades ought-weigh the possibility of failure of the Mil-Et financially. The Mil-Et is the most expensive Engine to replace. Upwards of $8,000 installed. And, it’s still has the same issues minus a few improvements. The current wait time is upwards of two-three months for a Long Block Engine. Which, by the way does not include the Oiling System designed to cool the engine, i.e., Oil Lines, Oil Cooler, and some other ancillaries.

 

Finally, a sad fact. If you want to keep that “American Made MIL-ET” running for years to come, at least for now, you must look to the Aftermarket for Quality and Tested Parts that are derived from both research and development. It’s not an opinion, it is a FACT. If you think Harley-Davidson is going to change Engines or upgrades in mid-stream you’re sadly mistaken. In the end analysis, it’s nothing more than business economics.

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The Transmission SUB ASSY’. The Cruise Drive Transmission has not been up-graded since 2008. And, it won’t be. The problem here is bigger Engine with more Horsepower and Torque. The Cruise Drive was never designed to accept more than 100 hp. A completely stock Mil-Et produces more than the Cruise Drive was ever designed for.

 

True, Helical Gears to “quiet down” the noise and provide a smoother riding experience is the problem. The only way to confront this problem is not to ever modify the engine and stay away from higher r.p.m.’s. The only way to correct the problem is with another Transmission. Precisely, one with “Straight-Cut” Gearing and much harder forged Gears and Shafts.

 

The ONLY two Transmission that can provide the necessary strength is the SE Transmission Sub Assy’ or the Baker “Grudge Box” Transmission Sub Assy’. Compared to the Baker, the SE Sub Assy’ performs like a pedal car. The Grudge Box is specifically engineered for upwards of 170+ hp!

 

The choice is yours. The Mil-Et is an excellent concept design with numerous great parts designs. Unfortunately, it falls way short of any Longevity without spending a lot of cash to fix it permanently. Although, when considering trading it in every two years when the warranty expires for another, the cost to DEALER-PROOF falls way short of purchasing new, especially if financing and putting 20% down every two years when you can build it to last almost 20+ Years and provide untold years of trouble-free riding with a two or more-fold Longevity increase.

 

If you want a virtually trouble-free experience, DEALER-PROOF is what you need to do. We guarantee it will never be in the shop from a failure of one of the parts mentioned herein. – Guaranteed. DEALER- PROOFING your MIL-ET, forgo that Extended Service Plan and put that money into the Engine. It will cost $2,000 to $4,800 to make it last. This is about the cost of that Stage-II kit you want. But the kit will not solve any problems other than your less tilted in the saddle because your wallet has less in it.

           

              The problem is, it costs money to almost entirely rebuild and upgrade parts to get the service from your engine and increase its life expectancy two or more-fold.

 

The options listed following are the BEST possible parts available at the best possible prices. The aftermarket spent millions to solve these issues with both research and development.

 

I would urge everyone, as a minimum to choose option A regardless of if you plan on keeping your Motorcycle a year or longer or more than 10,000 miles. Unfortunately, by then, most of the damage has begun and is not reversible.

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This first option assumes you’re someone who doesn’t want or desire a machine that runs its best but by the same token, don’t want your Motorcycle in the Dealerships Service Lane.

 

• This assumes you have a High-flow Air Intake and Exhaust. You can do yourself if you have some specialty tools and a factory service manual (excluding tuning).

 

• You’ll save $350.00 - $500.00 in labor cost. But, remember, “you get what you pay for”.

 

These parts have been tested over two years on many builds. Not one failure to date.

 

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OPTION - A

 

#310-0998B 0932-0251 S&S Cam Plate and Oil Pimp TC-3 or Fueling #7197 Race Series Oil

Pump & Camplate Kit, Oil Cooled Engines for Gear or Chain-Drive

#4017 Fueling Race Series Lifters Hydraulic, Standard OD

#330-0655 0929-0075 Tappet Cuffs

31-4199-S Inner Cam Bearing or #2080 Inner Cam Bearing

*179001 Tapered Quick-Install Adjustable Pushrods

Direct Link Mobile Dyno Tune by BIG TWIN Services, LLC. 2103-0359 Spark Plugs (4), Iridium Spark Plugs

C10178 0934-5940 Cam Service Kit Full Synthetic Oil

Oil Filter (Chrome or Black, your choice) Labor - Hartley-Davidson Job Time Code(s)

 

TOTAL FOR A MINIMUM DEALER-PROOFING – One Year Warranty  ……………………. $2,807.69

 

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OPTION - B

 

SE-Hi-Flow Flow 55 MM Intake Manifold **

** 92500047 Screamin' Eagle MIL-ET Stage II - Torque Kit * 29400299 Ventilator Air Cleaner Kit – MIL-ET Engine ** (*) 65600331 Screamin' Eagle High-Flow Exhaust Systems **

(*) BTSFFE Free Flowing Exhaust Head Pipe Modification

** 900-1013 Rocker Shaft Modification

** 000-0000 Spring Modification

 

TOTAL FOR A 100% DEALER-PROOFING of the ENGINE………..$5,405.60

 

 

OPTION – C (Stand-alone upgrade)

 

GrudgeBox Builder's Kit by Baker. (Excluding tax & shipping & Install) Install

 

TOTAL for the Baker: ……………………….…………….……….….... $4,015.00

 

TOTAL 100% DEALER-PROOFING (Options A, B, and C) …….. $12,318.29

 

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• A LIFETIME WARRANTY – IT FAILS WE FIX IT FREE OF CHARGE!

 

 

 

• INCLUDED W/ P/N 92500047 DOES NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING OR SALES TAX

** FREE LABOR INSTALLATION FOR MODIFICATION LOCATED IN THE

    SAME AREA FOR MULTI UPGRADES

• INCLUDED W/ P/N 92500047

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Eliminating the Primary Drive Failures in both the

Twin-Cam and Mil-Et [M-8]

 

                                   If you have been “keeping up” with our Testing and Solutions for the 2017 and later Model Motorcycles, you’ll be glad to know, we also have solved the Primary Drive Problems which have plagued the Motorcycles since about 1985.

 

THE “EVOLUTION” OF THE MIL-8 / TWIN-CAM PRIMARY DRIVE DEALER-PROOFING

As promised, we’ve eliminated the Mil-Eht [M-8] failures and next was to address the Primary Drive System that Harley-Davidson has had in one form or another since 1985.

 

In our neverendingly pursuit to resolve the issues, as with the Mil-8 Engine, we have found the solution to DEALER-PROOF the Primary Drive System. We’ve completed 50,000-mile tests and can now tell you how to DEALER-PROOF the PRIMARY DRIVE for WORRY FREE RIDING with a onetime cost. We tried a multitude of parts in differing configurations for customer’s in GA, MD, and VA consisting of five Motorcycles, two of which were BIG BUILDS! 140 hp and 145 tq. !

 

ISSUES AND SOLUTIONS

 

CHAIN TENSIONER: Everyone knows, and it’s no secret, Automatic Chain Tensioners and H-D Compensators are, to say the least, ineffective and damaging to your Motorcycle’s Transmissions Main Shaft, Seals, Bearing, and just plain worthless.

The Automatic Chain Tensioner since 2007, have been, and will continue to be an issue for Harley-Davidson Owners. Causing damage to almost every part of the Primary Drive System.

CHAIN TENSIONER  SOLUTION: The Hayden Enterprises #M6BT17-M8 Primary Chain Tensioner for Harley-Davidson Milwaukee-Eight M-8 Models is your answer! Automatically adjust the tension of the primary chain Provide constant and even tension, which improves gear shifting Reduce shifting noise; make for a smoother ride Extend primary chain life and it’s “Made in the U.S.A.” Cost about $120 + Shipping.

COMPENSATOR NIGHTMARE: Compensators on Harley-Davidson began having issues with the 96ci 2007 Model Year and, with FOUR REVISION’S to date, still continue to break costing the Customers upwards of $500 - $1000 on average. Sometimes destroying the Crank Sprocket and Flywheel Assy’s as well costing may thousands to repair. This problem will NEVER go away by the Motor Company. They’ve just “given-up” on any more R&D. We have tested MANY so-called solutions to the Compensator Issues including the Screamin’ Eagle and to no avail. They just keep breaking and destroying parts!

COMPENSATOR NIGHTMARE SOLUTION: Man O-War Motorsprocket system by DarkHorse This motor sprocket is the 1st performance engineered primary motor sprocket on the market that provides "instant torque response" combined with an “engine pulse absorbing cushion drive”  primary system for Harley-Davidson Twin-Cam® and Milwaukee 8®  models. All these benefits combined with being a billet machined, balanced motor sprocket that weighs nearly 2 pounds less than the OEM compensator and ½ the number of parts,  you do not have to look any further to increasing your “trouble free” miles on your Harley-Davidson Twin-Cam® or Milwaukee 8® motorcycle.  AND Replacing cushions costs considerably less, estimated at under 1 hour labor with proper tooling and our certified 8-piece cushion kit is currently priced at $39.95 + tax & shipping and should not have to be dome for 30,000 miles‼

 

CLUTCH NIGHTMARE: As the above, nothing has been done to prevent failures and catastrophic damage caused by higher horsepower engines from the 96ci to the 131ci Harley-Davidson builds. In fact, moving more than 100 hp will cost you, bigtime if you are the type to “full power the Throttle”. It’s a fact. Clutch fade, walk, slip, and heat destroys not only the clutch but, the basket and bearings as well. The Stock Clutch just plain SUCKS at getting the horsepower to the rear wheel without excessive wear and damage. People pay hefty prices for stage builds to find out they just do not perform because of Clutch issues. And, they’re loud as crap!

 

CLUTCH NIGHTMARE SOLUTION:  REKLUSE “TorqDrive Plus 6”. TorqDrive provides more disks in less space, allowing us to add up to 6 additional frictions disks to the clutch pack over stock.  More frictions = more torque capacity thus unlocking the full power of your engine without the need to add stiffer or pressure plate springs or a lock up..  Proven in racing at the highest levels, it’s not just good, it’s “Revolutionary”.

 

The Plus 6 friction disks offer up to 50% stronger clutch engagement with no increase in lever effort, Smoother shifting, Improved lever feel, engineered to eliminate slip and tunable to handle high horsepower engines, Steel core friction disks for improved heat dissipation and longer clutch life. Rekluse sleeves eliminate basket wear and notching.

 

 

 

 

 

INNER PRIMARY BEARING: The Inner Primary Bearing does a lot. Specifically. maintaining a friction-free surface for the Transmissions Main Shaft which the Clutch is also connected to. These often cause the Primary race to “walk” the Main Shaft and fail under aggressive operation in the Stock Setup. inner bearing race has been used on Big Twins since 1985. The inner primary bearing rides on this race. By design, this race press-fits onto the transmission mainshaft. This system works fine for stock engines. 100 HP+ engines will make this race walk on the mainshaft. If it walks inboard, it will damage the maindrive gear seal and cause a transmission oil leak. If it walks outboard, it will cause a primary oil leak.

 

INNER PRIMARY BEARING SOLUTION: BAKER The 34091-85 high torque bearing kit eliminates this condition. Kit includes a precision honed bearing and seal. #189-56. Five Year Fifty Thousand Mile [50,000 mi.] Warranty!

 

Not only did we NOT see one fail using these parts, wear was SURPRISINGLY unfound! Some had minimalistic initial signs of use, but none had wear! AMAZING!

In total disclosure, I did break a Bearing when removing it from the inner-primary – MY BAD!

 

If you have any questions or comments, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

 

You can find the costs on the following page to never repair another primary drive problem – Guaranteed!

 

 

Sincerely,

 

 

Thomas White Owner

Ph. 706.220.4239

Web: service@bigtwinservices.com

e-Mail: www.bigtwinservices.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MANUFACTURER RETAIL COST

 

 

Hayden Enterprises #M6BT17 ………………………………………. $118.00

 

Man O War Motorsprocket 34 TOOTH TWIN CAM 2007-16 ….…. $514.90

 

Man O War Motorsprocket 34 TOOTH MILWAUKEE 8 ………….. $499.95

 

REKLUSE “TorqDrive Plus 6”...……………………………………… $459.00

 

High Torque Bearing Kit - BAKER Drivetrain ……………………..… $50.00

 

TOTAL to DEALER PROOF ………………………………………  $1,642.80

 

• Does not include Labor or GA Sales Tax

 

 

One failure in your Primary could easily cost as much or more in parts to just put Stock parts back in that will fail again.